If you count a day trip to Chamonix via the Mont-Blanc tunnel, last week’s holiday to France was my fifth visit to the country. The first couple weren’t spectacularly successful : a skiing trip during which I didn’t ski because the heights got the better of me, and a beach holiday with friends with whom I’ve subsequently had no contact in the fifteen years since our return. Then two years ago Helen & I popped over to Wissant (a lovely, unspoilt seaside town down the coast from Calais) for a few days, and I no longer viewed France as having it in for me when it came to holidays. This year we were heading off for a wedding in the Loire Valley, which I mentioned here and is described in detail by Helen here. It was to be my longest visit to France since the heady days of up-and-to-the-left abscesses in ‘92…
We caught the 2am P & O Ferry from Dover and promptly fell asleep. I drove to Dover, Helen drove from Calais, and barely awake we arrived in Rouen in time for a pain-au-chocolate for breakfast. After ruminating on Catholic France’s love of dramatic cathedrals and not being able to find the car in an underground car park we headed off to our first camp site in Le Bec-Hellouin, which has apparently recently been voted one of the most beautiful villages in France. The camp site was run by a lovely couple who directed us to our pitch on an electric bicycle and made us feel most welcome. The village itself was indeed beautiful, and we spent a time walking around the near-1000 year old Abbey for which it is most famous. We had a very expensive drink sat outside a local restaurant and enjoyed a wonderful conversation between an English father and his teenage son, during which the son was tempted to try Orangina. He was warned off it by the father who described it as “not as sweet as Fanta, and it’s got bits in. It’s a bit like orange juice and soda. It’s not sweet, it’s not like normal orange drinks” in the most negative tone of voice possible. For heaven’s sake, why bother going to France if you’re not going to try anything a bit different?! I felt like offering up one of the sugar cubes Helen had with her coffee in order to make sure it was sweet enough for the poor lad. Notably, the son sank the Orangina swiftly, but his younger brother wouldn’t touch his Coke because it had a slice of lemon in it…
Although we’d been cooking on our little gas stove, we decided to go out for a meal on our second night in the area. We looked at the map and decided to head to the town of Brionne, which we guessed would have places to eat which would not be as expensive as the places in Le Bec-Hellouin. The website seems to paint a vibrant picture of Brionne. Maybe it’s just that Thursday evening is the quiet time of the week when everyone recovers from being exciting, but Brionne was dead. Nowhere was open, no one was about. Hungry, and desperate for facilities, we headed off into the countryside in the rough direction of Pont-Authou in the hope of finding somewhere to eat.
Restaurant Madame Durand in Freneuse sur Risle doesn’t have its own website. It’s not at all that sort of place. If you’re in the area I recommend it wholeheartedly - it’s on the D130 roughly half way between Le Havre and Rouen (map here) and the picture below, although of excellent technical quality, totally fails to demonstrate how much like someone’s living room it is…

As we sat down we were given a bottle of local wine and some Cassis. Bread and a plate of anchovies and prawns followed, and fearing that my vegetarianism might spoil things a little Helen explained to them that I ate “no meat, chicken or fish”. The woman who had brought the wine over stared wide eyed and sucked her teeth, the other woman (we believe they were sisters) who was stood behind the open stove tops in the middle of the ‘living room’ looked at me in astonishment and in French even I could understand asked how, if I didn’t eat all that, had I got so fat! Much laughter ensued, from the three other guests too, and she assured us that they would sort something out for me. It was a set menu, and Helen found herself eating food she wouldn’t necessarily have chosen to, but which with one small exception was excellent. The anchovies and prawns were followed by home made pate and fois gras, left in their bowls on the table for Helen to help herself to. Then came the escargots and moules in a rich garlic sauce. Then came the duck which was very rare and not really to Helen’s liking - the one small dislike. I was supplied with vegetables, potatoes and salad for my main course, and then the cheese board arrived which again we were allowed to help ourselves to. Apple dumplings in a delicious berry sauce followed, with a bonus crepe for me whilst Helen caught up. Penultimately we were given blackcurrant sorbet with creme brulee ice cream. We were encouraged to splash home made Calvados on our deserts - with the bottle left on the table for us to help ourselves. Finally, Helen had a coffee and the Calvados was offered by way of a digestif - again for us to help ourselves to. Throw in the fact that the chef proudly proclaimed to our amazement that she was 75 and kept in shape by only eating cheese once a day and by not partaking of food after 3pm, that the (perfectly clean and appropriate) bathroom was also like a living room, that there was softcore French TV porn on in the background, and that the final bill came to just £50, and this seven course meal was the find of the holiday. If you’re in the area, make sure you go and visit - the restaurant we’d chosen in random desperation was a fantastic French experience.
I still have to write about the French roads and my desire for idleness, but that will have to wait until later in the week when I’ve not got work to do.